Our next destination!

Dear readers,

We are glad to inform you that our walking story is continuing. On the 1st of June we are going to cross another country - Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
As it was before, we are intended to go deep in the country to explore its people, culture and nature.

We are sure it will be a great trip again! And we will be glad to share our experience with you.
You can read our travel notes here: https://luxembourgianstroll.wordpress.com

Hope, you will enjoy our new stroll with us!

Olesia  & Stephan Soudiere.  

Not the end but the off-time.

I do not know if it is my imagination or not, but it seems that the last days of my travels are always accompanied by the clear blue sky, bright sun and windless mood. So that behaved the nature on the last day of Latvian Stroll.

There was not much left to walk, but we enjoyed each of last kilometers:  from relieved backpacks, from the heating sun, from 10-minutes breaks at bus stops, from churches and houses that were on our way, from the water, from clear lakes, from the cool wind, from the freshly “on the knee"-brewed coffee, from the fact that we are here and now.
 

Around three or four o'clock in the afternoon we found ourselves the border of Latvia and Lithuania. I couldn’t not believe it. But a sign saying "Lietuvos Respublika" is not lying.

After reading it, I cried out: "What ?! That’s all?!".

Right, it was difficult to believe that the journey came to an end, that we reached its final point, that the backpacks will soon stop being a part of our body, that the night sky won’t be our roof, that we won’t have to put the tent and wrap in sleeping bags, that we won’t need to conceal the flame from the wind, that he would not need to knock new doors in order to ask for some water.

All this is completed, ended.

I remember the journalist in Daugapils asking us what we are going to do after this campaign. We replied without hesitation: "We’ll take a break before the next."

Life between trips – is a pause to catch the breath before going somewhere again. The final point of the trip – is not the target, the way - is. And this way, we believe, will last all life.

What was valuable in those three weeks?

Perhaps the understanding that you do not need lot to be happy: clear sky, and if it is gloomy, the small roof that is enough for two, water to have enough to drink and wash hands, a piece of bread and a cookie to share with your companion, the silence of the forest and bird calls, the first star in the night sky and a thin scarlet stripes of the rising sun, a steady hand and an understanding heart near, and  freedom - in time, in direction, in actions and thoughts.

In conclusion, I wanted to say one thing. During the trip we met many wonderful people - they were different, they lived and saw life differently, but they were all amazed, and even were enthusiastic about our trip. Many times we have heard: "It is so great what you're doing! And I would like to do it! I would do it on a bike! ".
So, please, people, do what you wish so much, do what you are dreaming about. Do not let your dreams seemingly  impossible to reach. After the very first step, everything becomes more real. We live only once so, please, make your dreams come true. Life is good because everything is possible in it. Everything.

The end.

Near-boarder kilometres.

Forest morning filled us with immense joy. It's amazing how seemingly simple things can inspire us. Here we breathe moist forest air, step on mossy cushions, look at plants of the lovely forms, and hugging trees growing up to the sky.

Perhaps realizing that our journey is about to come to an end, we did not want to leave the forest, so we enjoyed a long winding trail that led us into a completely different world, where it is so usual for people to live, where civilization had built its corridors, where society lives under, we can say, greenhouse conditions. We were approaching Daugapils.

But before reaching it, we met a lot of people that diligently were looking for mushrooms, which, we hope, they found and collected with joy and gratitude. Here is a portrait of a funny man, who expertly told us what to pick, what is better not to eat :)

 

 

In Daugapils we arrived on a purpose. Of course, I wanted to see the city, the second capital of Latvia, which we were not familiar with. Plus, we had an interview with a local newspaper. We wanted to share our thoughts about the journey even a little before the finish.

Daugapils city is special. It is definitely not Riga, it has its own beauty. Russians probably will be most comfortable here, because you can hardly hear Latvian language. It is not surprising, since the city is close to the border, that this border erased by time, if they were there at all.

In the afternoon, we met a young journalist, who was not familiar with what we are actually doing here, so he was surprised twice. We shared everything in the hope to inspire someone.

After a short rest in the main hotel, the room we were given by the Daugapils department of culture (we are very, very grateful!), we walked around the city. I must say that it was very strange to feel myself again in the walls of the city, in a concrete jungle, where apply completely different life-rules.

Life in the city is beautiful, but still we enjoy the two poles of life - close to wild conditions, and in the warm embrace of civilization. So walk, please, in the woods, it's quiet and peaceful there, and you can hear yourself better too.

The sun was shining, and it meant that we can still go. We went on.

The objective was to go as far from the city as possible, in order to find a lodging for the night, the last night of our trip. We felt some kind of responsibility towards ourselves. Therefore we were breathing every minute of the evening sun, carefully looking for a good place for a farewell bonfire. We found it. Unexpectedly, but we did it.
There was a lake shore that was shrouded by trees. There we found a nook. It was clear sky with bright moon and stars. With the heat of the fire we made we carefully warmed ourselves up. And gratefully happy went to bed. Sleeping bag.

The day can't be without beauties.

What was valuable for me in this trip – is a regularity and fullness of each day. Some days you talk with people, some days you dialogue with nature, yourself, and your friend-companion. 

That day we were walking neither fast nor slow, but definitely thoughtfully and carefully. Deliberateness and attention – are definitely our allies. You see much more with them.

So we were looking into the corridors of yellowing trees, were listening to the calls of departing birds, were smelling the autumn forest.

                                           

Abstracting from the trip poetry, will talk about the vital. More precisely, about something delicious. I will say in advance that it is not advertising or PR-campaign, it's just our love. Love for the ice cream :)
In Latvia we never miss an opportunity to eat a cone or an bucket of "Ekselence" ice-cream. Walking time is not an exception for us, so in the next little Veikals we found our delicatesse. Our generally accepted ice-cream is with peanut butter, I love the one which is with  pomegranate or cherry too (light sour emphasizes the sweet for good).

And we love the one that is in half-liter can (which is usually not enough) - with halva! So we advise you to arm with spoons, find not-flattened grass in the central park of Riga and getting the warm of the sun, scarf down this joy.

 

The same day I finally did what I wanted to do for long: to make a picture of a direction sign that Latvians put by their homes. In Russia we hang plates with the street name and house number, here houses or farms have their own names. I tried to find an explanation for the way homes get their names and what do they mean. As far as I understood and remembered, people are free to choose the name of their home, or they can keep the one that was given by someone before. Sometimes they mean something, and sometimes it's just a sonorous word. Anyway, it was always interesting to look at those signs, they whisper something about their hosts.

By the end of the day as it usually happens, we had to think how much further we should go, where to arrange the night. Our map was telling us that we were close to a forest, which is great. But there is also a small river, which is unknown: is it possible to cross it, is there any bridge, maybe - nothing.
So the decision was to ask owners of the house, which is by the forest, to see if there is still the bridge which we was promised by the map.

We were already not astonished by the marvel of people about our trip through the country. But before we didn’t experience the attempt of people to imbue the fear of the forest! The woman we met started to convince us fiercely that there are hunters who would not let anyone come into the forest, that we will be kept away by tan helicopter and that the bridge had been destroyed long ago, and that we would get lost there, and that we wouldn’t stay alive after.
Well, we thanked for the kind and encouraging words, and after half-minute thinking we went into the forest. Stephan loves helicopters very much, me – it is my dream to fly it. So we went ahead towards our dreams!
Ironically, just approaching the forest, we had heard the echo that very woman that was shouting at us: "You do not understand something? You will get lost there! You will be picked up! ".

So we waved goodbye and went further.

Forest was of an incredible beauty. Tall spruce, soft mossy, red fern. Beauty affected the heart straight away. All was as we love it. And someone tried to deprive us of it ...

We reached the promised bridge. Yes, half of it was destroyed, but the important thing is that the second half – was there, and it was still good! So we found a balance between our bodies and backpacks, and step by step we crossed the bridge, crossed the river.
Once we found our place for night - between the pine trees, on a plush moss under the bluest sky.
Such a simple happiness.

When there is much more than 24 hours in a day.

The gentle warm morning on the lake started with not a healthy breakfast. Homemade cottage-cheese, which Yanina gave us, and sweet blueberries that we luckily bought from a farmer in Madona.
Do not know if it is necessary to say how good it was ...)

The next point on our way - a small town, Atasiene. We approached it very fast and spent some time to observe it, to think about it and make certain conclusions.
Atasiene is a small town with lots of old-style block houses, dilapidated and not many private houses around, with people, some of which live, some - survive.

Not being secretive, it can be said that Latvia now is at the stage of development and formation, which is concentrated mainly in Riga (about half of the total population lives there).

Other cities that are not full of interesting attractions for tourists, necessary productions for the country or fields suitable for farming, must survive uprooting their right to better days.

Not everyone is equally good at it, unfortunately. Work is hard to find, the strength to move on, too. And such reflection about this situation was obvious in this small town.

We noticed a small shop, where we decided to replenish our food stock. The shop was small, but there was possible to find everything we needed.
Not the most pleasant thing to realize but the fact was that during our “shopping”, there were two types of customers. The first was the turn of men, young and not very that lined up in a row for "stupefying" liquid. The second was consisted of women, mostly elderly, who were buying all sorts of products.

It would be funny if it was not so sad ... It turns out that the woman carries the burden of difficult life, when a man is in a despair dialogue with a bottle. Sad but true.

Fortunately, Atasiene will be remembered not only for this occasion. In the city and around there are plenty nice houses: with their flowers, characters, stories and blooming gardens. Houses are different, but a common feature was for everyone. I did not immediately understand why by each house a strange wooden construction was built: about one and a half meters high, with a staircase leading to a small platform.

 We were walking and wondering till we noticed an important attribute of all of this construction – milk cans! It turned out to us that the residents put their cans on the platform, and as soon as the milkman comes, it is much easier and faster to pour milk in :)

Hitherto we hadn’t seen this system elswhere in Latvia, but here in Latgale, it had been kept. And thus a dairy tradition is preserved and that is, for sure, good for both the farmer and the buyer.

Another funny thing happened that day. We were walking on a sandy country road, passing by a small half-empty village. Who would have ever thought that there you can find a real small library? In an old but sturdy hut lives the knowledge and people's desire to keep it and pass it further.
Departing from the lyrics, we were very lucky to find it! For some reason it was closed, but wireless Internet was available. Thanks to this we were able to write our close ones and publish another story for you. And what is more surprising, plugs were available outside. Plenty plugs! So cameras, phones and computer got a boost of energy.

After again country roads, autumn sun, fields, lot of trees and charming little village houses.

Once I turned my head and saw a tree, an orange tree. It was orange because of berries that weighted branches all over. Orange berries - of course, it was a sea buckthorn).
I didn’t have a passion towards this berry, but Stephan – definitely has a friendship with it. So my find was immediately announced.

Trees, in fact, were all in berries – of glaring color and in a ready condition. The trees were growing by the house. It meant that they belong to someone, but berries were not picked. So we didn’t think twice and decided to ask the owner permission to collect berries. We couldn’t let this berry disappear like that, so tasty and healthy it is!
We knocked the door, it was opened by a smiling hostess Sofia. She responded our request positively, saying that the trees are here for beauty and berries - for the birds. Also she would be just happy to share them with us.

Stephan, armed with bucket went for berries. Meanwhile, I was talking with Sofia.
It was interesting to hear about her life: she lives with her husband, they have a farm, they had already raised two clever daughters and live a happy life every day.

Our story surprised and pleased her too. She was wondering how many things we probably had seen, how many things we had learned. A lot – that’s true!
A bit later her husband came out. A nice man who was eating an ice cream (and we understand his ice-cream love). Not missing the opportunity, I made a good portrait of them.

As a tradition, Sofia could not let us go without gifts: she gave us huge and delicious eggs, homemade smoked bacon (a treat for Stephan) and she offered a warm evening bath at neighbours’ place. All this – just amazing!
In the morning Sofia paid us a visit in our tent. She regaled us with fresh cow  milk, and saw us off. For all the kind - heartfelt thanks!

The Warmth.

The next day was the hottest one. Hot in the truest sense of the word. The sun was baking so that my jeans were welded to my legs, the asphalt was heated to dark blue, and with the wind I could dry my hair.

So we were walking all day, moving by shadow bounds.

At some point we realized that the body needs coolness, it needs it inside and outside. So we decided it was time to find good people that would share some water with us. No sooner said that done! Fortunately, in Latvia it is not hard to find welcoming people - is the vast majority.

Our next meeting - a woman Janina. As we noticed, she has a big family, so that there was a large family farm too. We found them in the process of preparation for the harvest. Despite the busyness and the fact that we asked just for water from the well and a wooden bench to sit, she didn’t leave us without care and attention.

The hostess offered us home milk ( is it impossible to resist to such gifts?) Finally, she brought us fresh bread and home-made cranberry jam! Everything was simple, home-made and so delicious...

 And to all the delicious an interesting conversation was added. Janina said that it is not easy to live here, yet happily. It is not easy because you have to work a lot: the house always needs care, there is always enough work in the field and animals cannot stay without you. But happily because there is a forest, their own land, close-knit family, there is the nature that nurtures mind and body.

It was a pleasure to hear Janina’s story. I was glad because people can appreciate what they have, they know how to be happy and grateful for it.

Janina didn’t not let us go without milk, cottage cheese and a can of cranberry-apple jam, carrot and potatoes of incredible sizes. And she gave us an icon and her kindest wishes. We said thanks from our hearts.

Not far from the village of Atasiene, there was a lake and we headed to it. We went for the coolness, we went for the water, we went for the night.
We arrived and were happy: water and setting sun, the trees and the scarlet sky.

 The day was extremely hot, that’s why the first, ah, in fact, the third thing we did - dived into the lake. Of course, the swimming season was already closed, and the water temperature has decreased considerably, but we didn’t mind it. For Stephan it was like nothing to do, but I jumped into the water not after the fifth "One-two-three" :)

We had our water procedings not only with pleasure, but with a sense of responsibility as well: we didn’t want to spoil the water with soap foam and harass its inhabitants, so we washed ashore. Ok, we had to run with casserole there and back 10 times, but the lake remained clean. We think that it is the way it should be.

After we made a big fire, baked potatoes and made herbal tea.

Sunset sky was becoming more and more pinky, migrating birds were painting patterns on it, the stars were slowly but brightly twinkling. And we were happy from another day that was full to the brim with good things.

Silence.

With proufound intention to meet again, we said goodbye to the children's village of Grasi and moved from our travel's equator to its second half.

Besides additional heart luggage, we got plenty gifts from Inga. I told you about her, she is in charge of the culture in Madona. Inga thoughtfully gave us delicious Latvian bread with dried fruits, freshly baked cakes for Stephan, sweets for Olesia and dried cranberries for our overall health. Though we didn’t eat it on the way, coming back home it played the main role in cake :)

We said a big thanks and wished Inga and her colleagues to remain life-loving and hardworking!

And here we are again: with backpacks on the road, just two us with the whole world together.

And that day was amazing: silent and rainy, but full brimmed. It was very quiet, that’s why we could hear the whisper of the forest and a crane song, we could hear ourselves.

Each turn was as a barely finished picture: bends of a wet road, rows of redden trees, slowly flying clouds.

Yes, all way long the forest was our faithful companion. Passing by its side, we stared at it, gazed with delight, gazed with pleasure: there is a colour, there is a light, there are bends, there is a texture, and there are smells and sounds. Just notice and see.

I remember it because I got a comparison in my head. Usually people walk in the streets with colourful vitrines, melting from things they want to buy. But here it's different - the forest and the world. It seems to be usual for most, so they just quickly pass by in their cars forgetting just to stop and try to see more.

But, please, stop! Look, and listen with attention and care. And you will see and feel.

So the day passed. For all its wonders we had been grateful, but another little earthly happiness occurred by the end of it.
It was wet outside, and we thought it would be great if someone let us sleep in the barn – so the tent will be dryer and our sleep will be warmer. We noticed few houses not far from us. So we knocked there and here – silence as answers. Well, c’est la vie!
But as soon as we turned to go back – plenty raspberry bushes appeared! And it was amazing one! Berries were so big so they could easily overtwist on Amelie’s finger around its axis!

 We enjoyed berries straight there and took a little pot with us to make the next morning a bit sweeter. Just a bit, otherwise it would be too sweet :)

Grasi. The House of Children.

Finally, life is an amazing thing: sometimes it leads us to places we didn’t even think about, but at times we suddenly find ourselves at that very place, that we were unassumingly thinking about maybe once.

We faced the second case. Stephan knew about one unusual place in Latvia, which is located by the small (and beautiful) city of Cesvaine. This place is an orphan home – Grasi. It was founded many years ago by a Frenchman. I do not remember, how exactly he appeared in Latvia with such good intentions, but it happened, and this is important.
Now Grasi is a three children's houses where friendship and family relations are living together. Yes, in those houses children have a real life: in Grasi there is no traditional "camping system", where twenty children live in the same dormitory. Here everything is as close to life realities as possible: in each house there are from 4 to 5 rooms where the kids are living. Rooms are cosy and comfortable, each child has its own area, which by time gets a personal reflection of its inhabitant.

Some children literally have to learn how to live in a normal environment from zero: they keep the room clean, they go to school and walk, they do sport and art, and they learn how to communicate with other children and adults. All this is critically important for children that experienced the lack of parental care, attention, education and warmth. Otherwise, it is easy to get lost in this vast and unfortunately, not always welcoming world. Here the guardians of Grasi try to teach children all the necessary, all the most interesting, all the most important. And they do it right, with the responsibility and lot of love.
Heart shrinks from all of it, and at the same time it feels a drop of a relief and a joy. It shrinks from the thought that the children were left by parents when they are in a very fragile state. But it feels a release too: children are in hands of really good, smart and big-heart people.

After a while I got a logical question: how these kids got there? Is there kind of selection? Are there any special conditions? No, it comes by chance, even if it comes after a big life misfortune. In Latvia there are some centres, where children get for the first time, only after they are distributed to children's homes. This process is simple: this organization sends a request to an orphan house for an available place, if the answer is positive, the child goes there. The same thing happens in Grasi: no favorites, no “ better” or ”worse” - all children are equal, only chance plays a role.
And those who got in Grasi, they are really lucky. All kids are different: babies and youngsters, active boys and tender girls, storm petrels or demure. And all, without exception, have a chance to fly from the Grasi’s nest as strong and confident birds. The talents and interests of every child are supported and developed: there are future artists and architects, chefs and engineers.

                                                              Photo: Stephan Soudiere

Almost every kid earlier or later starts speaking French: every year they go to France for summer holidays, where they improve the language and broad the mind. Some of them decided to go and establish there when getting adult age and they can count on the support of their Latvian home. Some children decide to stay in Latvia. But the thing is that even if the child is not adopted by someone, he or she does not remain without any warmth or support. Grasi always stays their home with a big and loving family that always glad to see them. 

We were offered a one-day break in Grasi. And we didn’t refuse it! From that point we didn’t have any schedules or plans. So that, we were placed in a beautiful building of the Grasi hotel - another good thing the Frenchman and all Grasi's team did.

   

The building was playing a variety of roles before it became an amazing place to stay: there was a cinema, a Soviet store and barn, a post office and after a forgotten, useless building. The restoration lasted about 25 years, and now it's such a cosy place! The French taste and sense of aesthetics were not difficult to notice. Well, we have noticed it and just enjoyed it.

Hotel Grasi Pils, in fact, is another way to support the important initiative, children's homes. But they do not say about it a lot, do not advertise, trying to attract attention, they are just doing their job with love and proper care, no matter why guests chosen this place to rest.

The resting day there, should be pleasurable indeed: around - green forests, bit further - clear lakes, a bit far – the lovely town of Cesvaine. Small nice town very proud of its castle of an unusual beauty, of its basilica where the music of an open organ is played, for its cheese factory that won’t leave you hungry, and for its nice streets which are pleasant to walk. I described the town briefly but concisely – all in order to invite you there. To conclude, the town of Cesvaine was another great discovery!

It was impossible for us to rest there just one day: the place and its people were so good so we decided to stay one more day. And we were welcomed.

The next day my culinary cognitive interests led me to a woman, Marina, who is the main chef of Grasi – she cooks for both children and adults. It was interesting to find out what and how she cooks for children to sweeten their life.

I started the conversation with questions about the menu they have, how it is composed, and who loves what. All menus of orphan’s houses are coming from “the top”. Marina showed me a week menu and immediately rebelled against it. Simply because even if the food is tasty and nutritious, the portions are not big enough for teenagers. Usually children are more active than adults and thinking as well about the process of growing, food is very important. That’s why quality standards in Grasi are certainly respected, but the kids do not stay hungry at all.
 I was glad to hear that children are not indifferent to cooking too. If there is a desire, everyone can come in the kitchen to help Marina. And she will definitely find interesting and useful thing to do for everyone. And even those who have no desire of such kind, won’t miss the chance to learn how to cook in Grasi: Marina regularly makes intermediates and sends them to the children, so they finish the cooking themselves. This way they learn how to cook side dishes and reheat meatballs, how to make pancakes on Sunday morning.
And again, it is the story about children's education: it should be disparate, it should include the basic skills of life, which they did not have, but which are given here. It makes them stronger, more curious and intelligent. In my opinion, that's very right thing to do.

There was another important point in our conversations with Marina and Sandra, the Director of Grasi, it's to take pity on them. In the context of children’s lives it can be very insidious. If to talk about raw facts, it makes children weak. If to talk less obviously, some children may abuse of being pityful, turning it into an instrument of indulgence, and as a consequence, they do sign a verdict for the future helplessness in the real world.

Everything that is in Grasi – is an intelligent guardianship, life education and real human warmth. All those things that really work. And the result of it –the children found a family and became self-reliant and self-sufficient too.

There are children that went to France and work as chefs in top restaurants, there are those who stay in Latvia and work as architects and engineers. There are plenty stories, all are all different. But the point is that the work of Grasi is light and hearty and it allows those children who were unfairly left out of the family, to live the way their hearts tell them.

  

I said a lot and now it is time to show people, who are not many, but who put all mental and physical forces to Grasi and its inhabitants to let them live a happy life. Thank you a lot!

In conclusion, the link to the official Grasi website: http://www.grasufonds.lv/lv/english/
This link is here to attract your attention to the process of construction of the fourth home for the children. There are no sponsors, no big PR-campaign too, so if you have a possibility (in having a desire I have no doubt), please, help to build another house, where children's dreams will have all the chances to come true.
            http://www.grasufonds.lv/lv/english/ziedot-bernu-namam-grasi/